Title: How To Connect Two Bluetooth Headphones To One Laptop
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**Intro**
So, you and a friend want to watch a movie on your laptop. The problem? You’re in a library, a coffee shop, maybe an airport, and the world is loud. You’ve probably been there, trying to share one pair of earbuds, leaning in awkwardly, one of you getting the left audio and the other getting the right. It’s just not a great experience.
Then your friend pulls out their own awesome pair of Bluetooth headphones. Great idea! Except… you both stare at the laptop and realize you can only connect one at a time. That shared movie night seems doomed.
But what if I told you it doesn’t have to be? In this video, I’m going to show you exactly how to turn your laptop into a private cinema for two, step-by-step. We’ll cover everything for both Mac and Windows, from built-in tricks to some powerful software and simple hardware. By the end of this, you’ll be an expert.
**Section 1: The Core Problem – Why Your Laptop Says “No”**
Before we jump into the fixes, it helps to understand *why* this is a problem in the first place. Why can’t you just connect two pairs of headphones as easily as a mouse and keyboard? It feels like it should be simple, but the limitation is built right into standard Bluetooth.
Think of a regular Bluetooth audio connection like a dedicated, one-to-one phone call. Your laptop is talking, and your headphones are listening. The technology running this call is called A2DP, the Advanced Audio Distribution Profile. Its whole job is to stream one high-quality stereo signal from a source to a receiver. It uses a lot of the available Bluetooth bandwidth to make sure your movie or music sounds as good as possible.
When you try to add a second pair of headphones, you’re asking your laptop to have two of these high-quality conversations at the same time, over a channel designed for just one. Most laptops just aren’t built to manage that. They see the second request and basically say, “Nope, I can’t guarantee quality for both, so I’m sticking with the one I’ve got.”
Now, you might have heard of “Bluetooth multipoint,” and it sounds like a solution, right? Unfortunately, that’s for something else. Multipoint lets a single pair of headphones connect to *two sources*—like your laptop and your phone. It lets you listen to music from your computer and then automatically switch to answer a call on your phone. It’s all about one headset juggling two sources, not one source feeding two headsets.
This limitation is so common that big companies had to build their own way around it. Apple has “Share Audio” for its AirPods and Beats, and Samsung has “Dual Audio” for its Galaxy phones. They had to engineer their own solutions because standard Bluetooth just didn’t have an answer.
So, when your laptop says no to two headphones, it isn’t broken—it’s doing exactly what it was designed to do. But don’t worry, we’re about to bend the rules.
**Section 2: The Universal Prerequisites – Setting the Stage for Success**
Before we get to the specific methods, we need to do a little prep work. These steps apply to every solution we’re going to talk about, and doing them now will save you a lot of trouble later.
First, and this is the most important part, you have to pair **both** pairs of headphones with your laptop one at a time. You need to introduce each one to your computer before you can ask them to work together.
On Windows 10 or 11, just go to your Settings, then “Bluetooth & devices,” and click “Add device.” Choose “Bluetooth,” and then put your first pair of headphones in pairing mode—that usually means holding down the power or Bluetooth button until a light flashes. Once it shows up on your screen, click to connect. After it’s connected, do the exact same thing for the second pair. For now, sound will probably only play through the last one you connected. That’s totally normal.
On a Mac, it’s just as easy. Go to the Apple menu and open “System Settings,” then click “Bluetooth.” Put your first pair of headphones in pairing mode, and when it appears in the list, click “Connect.” Once that’s done, repeat the process for the second pair. Just like on Windows, your Mac will only send audio to one of them for now, but the important thing is that both are now paired and ready.
Next, a quick word on the tech. Pretty much any Bluetooth headphones you’ve bought in the last ten years will support the A2DP profile needed for stereo audio, so you don’t really need to worry about that. It also helps if your laptop has a newer version of Bluetooth, like 4.0 or ideally 5.0 or higher. While it’s not strictly required for these workarounds, newer chips are just better at handling data, which can lead to a more stable connection.
Finally, let’s set some realistic expectations. We are pushing the limits of what your laptop was built to do. Because of that, you might run into small issues. The most common one is a tiny delay, or latency, between the two headphones, which creates a slight echo. This is especially noticeable in movies. You might also hit some interference since Bluetooth uses the same 2.4GHz frequency as many Wi-Fi routers. We’ll talk about which methods are best to avoid this, but it’s good to know what you might face.
With both headphones paired, let’s get into the solutions.
**Section 3: The Mac Solution – The ‘It Just Works’ Method (Almost)**
If you’re in the Apple ecosystem, you’re in luck. macOS has a powerful, if somewhat hidden, tool that is perfect for this. You don’t need to download anything; it’s already on your Mac. It’s called the **Audio MIDI Setup**, and it lets you create a virtual audio device that combines both of your headphones.
Let’s walk through it. It’s surprisingly easy.
First, open the Audio MIDI Setup app. The fastest way is to use Spotlight—just hit Command + Spacebar and start typing “Audio MIDI Setup.” It’ll pop right up. You can also find it in your Applications folder, inside the “Utilities” folder.
Once it’s open, look at the bottom-left corner of the window. You’ll see a small plus sign (+). That’s what we need. Click that plus button and choose “Create Multi-Output Device.”
A new device named “Multi-Output Device” will instantly appear in the list. Click on it, and the panel on the right will show all the audio devices your Mac can see. This includes your built-in speakers and, of course, the two Bluetooth headphones we just paired.
All you have to do is check the boxes next to both of your Bluetooth headphones. This tells your Mac to send audio to both of them at the same time.
We’re almost done, but there are two critical settings left. First, you need to pick a “Master Device” from the dropdown menu. This just tells the system which pair of headphones sets the timing. It doesn’t really matter which one you choose, so just pick the first pair.
The second and most important setting is **”Drift Correction.”** You’ll see a checkbox for it next to each device. Sometimes, Bluetooth devices can play audio at very slightly different speeds, causing them to “drift” out of sync and create an echo. Checking the “Drift Correction” box for your *second* pair of headphones tells your Mac to actively keep the two audio streams locked together. This is absolutely essential for watching movies, so make sure that box is checked for the non-master headphone.
The final step is to actually use this new virtual device. You can either right-click on your “Multi-Output Device” in the Audio MIDI Setup window and select “Use This Device For Sound Output,” or you can go to your “System Settings,” click “Sound,” and select your “Multi-Output Device” from the output list.
And that’s it! Play a video or some music. You should now hear the exact same audio coming from both pairs of headphones, perfectly in sync.
If it’s not working, double-check that “Drift Correction” box. You can also try disconnecting and reconnecting the headphones in the Bluetooth menu. And remember, your Mac’s main volume keys won’t control both headphones; you’ll need to use the individual volume controls on each pair.
**Section 4: The Windows Workarounds – Let’s Get Creative**
Alright, Windows users, it’s our turn. Windows doesn’t have a slick, built-in tool like Audio MIDI Setup, but don’t worry. We’ve got a few different ways to tackle this.
**(Sub-Section 4A: The ‘No-Software’ Trick with Stereo Mix)**
If you want a quick fix without installing anything, Windows has a hidden feature called “Stereo Mix.” It’s technically a recording input that captures all the audio your PC is playing. We can repurpose it to duplicate our sound. Be warned, though: this method is famous for creating a noticeable delay between the headphones, making it bad for movies but okay for sharing music in a pinch.
Here’s how you do it. Right-click the speaker icon in your taskbar and select “Sounds.” In the window that opens, click the “Recording” tab.
You might not see “Stereo Mix” in the list. If it’s not there, it’s probably just hidden. Right-click anywhere in the empty space of that list and make sure “Show Disabled Devices” is checked. “Stereo Mix” should pop up. Right-click on it and select “Enable.”
Now, right-click on “Stereo Mix” again and go to “Properties.” In the new window, click the “Listen” tab. Here’s the trick: check the box that says “Listen to this device.” This tells Windows to take the Stereo Mix audio and play it back through an output.
From the dropdown menu below that, select your *first* pair of Bluetooth headphones. Click “Apply,” then “OK.”
We’re halfway there. Now we just need to send the main audio to the other pair. Go back to the “Playback” tab in your Sound control panel. Find your *second* pair of Bluetooth headphones, right-click it, and choose “Set as Default Device.”
So, to recap: the second pair of headphones is your main output. At the same time, Stereo Mix is “listening” to everything and piping it over to the first pair. In theory, audio should now play through both. Go ahead and try it. You’ll probably hear sound from both, but you’ll almost certainly notice an echo. That’s why this is a good trick to know, but not our best solution.
**(Sub-Section 4B: The Power User’s Choice – Voicemeeter Banana)**
This is, by far, the best and most flexible free solution for Windows: Voicemeeter Banana. I know the name is weird, and when you first open it, the interface looks like a spaceship’s control panel. But I promise, you only need to touch a few settings to get it working perfectly.
Voicemeeter is a “virtual audio mixer.” It lets you grab sound from anywhere and send it to anywhere—or in our case, to two places at once.
First, you need to download and install it. Search for “Voicemeeter Banana” or go to vb-audio.com. Make sure you get the “Banana” version. Download and run the installer. After it’s done, it will tell you to restart your computer. This is not a suggestion—it’s mandatory. Voicemeeter installs special audio drivers that only load on a reboot, so go ahead and restart your PC.
Okay, computer restarted? Great. Open Voicemeeter Banana from your Start Menu.
First, we need to tell Windows to send all its sound to Voicemeeter. Right-click the speaker icon in your taskbar, go to “Sounds,” and on the “Playback” tab, you’ll see a new device called “Voicemeeter Input.” Right-click it and “Set as Default Device.” Now all your computer’s audio is being funneled into the Voicemeeter app.
Now, look at the Voicemeeter window. On the far right, in the “Master Section,” you’ll see five buttons labeled A1, A2, A3, A4, and A5. These are your hardware outputs.
Click on button **A1**. A menu will pop up with every audio device connected to your PC. Find your first pair of Bluetooth headphones. You’ll probably see a few options for it, like WDM, KS, or MME. For most setups, WDM is the one you want, as it gives a good mix of low latency and stability. So, click the WDM option for your first pair of headphones.
You can probably guess what’s next. Click on button **A2** and select the WDM option for your *second* pair of Bluetooth headphones.
Believe it or not, that’s it. You’ve told Voicemeeter to take all the computer’s sound and send it to outputs A1 and A2, which are your two headphones. Play some audio, and you should hear it in both, perfectly in sync.
And here’s the best part: see the volume sliders right below the A1 and A2 buttons? You can now control the volume for each pair of headphones independently. This is a level of control no other free method can offer.
One last, very important tip: when you’re done and you close Voicemeeter, your sound will disappear. That’s because you told Windows to send everything to Voicemeeter, and it’s no longer running. You just need to go back into your Sound settings and set your speakers or main headphones as the default device again.
**Section 5: The Easiest & Most Reliable Way – The Hardware Solution**
Now we come to our final method, which is the simplest and most bulletproof of them all. If the software setups seem like too much of a hassle, or if you want something that works with your TV, a Nintendo Switch, or even an airplane entertainment system, a dedicated Bluetooth transmitter is your answer.
A Bluetooth transmitter is a small gadget you plug into a headphone jack or USB port. Its only job is to take an audio signal and broadcast it over Bluetooth. The key is that many of these are specifically designed with a “Dual Link” or “Dual Stream” feature, meaning they are built to send one audio stream to two pairs of headphones at the same time. This bypasses your laptop’s built-in Bluetooth and all its limitations.
This works so well because it’s specialized hardware. They often use advanced tech like aptX Low Latency to keep the audio and video perfectly synced, eliminating the lag you can get with software. And because it’s hardware, it doesn’t care if you’re on Windows, Mac, or Linux. If your device has a headphone jack, it’ll work.
When you’re shopping for one, make sure the description clearly says “dual-stream,” “dual-link,” or that it can connect to two headphones. Brands like Avantree, MEE Audio, and TaoTronics are all well-known in this area. Models like the Avantree Orbit are often recommended because they’re reliable. They do cost a bit, usually from $30 to $100, but you’re paying for simplicity and stability.
Setup is incredibly simple.
1. Plug the transmitter into your laptop’s headphone jack and a USB port for power.
2. Put the transmitter into pairing mode, usually by holding a button until a light flashes.
3. Put your first pair of headphones into pairing mode and place them near the transmitter. They’ll connect automatically.
4. Put the transmitter back into pairing mode for the second channel, then put your second pair of headphones into pairing mode. They’ll connect just like the first.
And you’re done. Your laptop is just sending audio out of its headphone jack. The transmitter is doing all the heavy lifting of streaming it perfectly to both headphones.
**Section 6: Comparing Your Options & Final Recommendations**
So, we’ve gone through a lot. Which method is right for you?
For **Mac users**, the choice is simple. Start with the built-in **Audio MIDI Setup**. It’s free, it’s already there, and it works beautifully for watching movies thanks to its low latency and drift correction.
For **Windows users**, it depends on your comfort level and budget.
* If you’re on a budget and don’t mind tinkering for a few minutes, **Voicemeeter Banana** is your best bet. It’s free, it offers perfect sync, and it gives you independent volume control, which is a huge bonus.
* If you’re an “I just want it to work” person on any platform and are willing to spend a little money for a zero-hassle experience, a **dedicated Bluetooth transmitter** is the way to go. It’s the most reliable, has the lowest latency, and works with almost anything.
And let’s not forget the quick-and-dirty **Stereo Mix** method on Windows. If you’re in a pinch and just want to share music, it’ll get the job done. Just don’t try watching a movie with it unless you enjoy a serious echo.
Let me know in the comments which method you’re going to try!
**Section 7: The Future is Here (Almost) – A Look at Auracast**
Before we wrap up, I want to give you a quick look at the future, because this whole problem is about to become a thing of the past. The technology that’s going to fix this is called **Auracast**.
Auracast is a new feature of Bluetooth LE Audio. Instead of the one-to-one pairing we’re used to, it lets a device—like your laptop—broadcast its audio to an unlimited number of headphones nearby.
Imagine walking into an airport or gym, and your phone shows you a list of available Auracast streams. You could just tap to listen in on one of the muted TVs. For our situation, you could start an Auracast from your laptop, and your friend could simply “tune in” to your movie’s audio with their own headphones.
This isn’t sci-fi; it’s happening right now. We’re starting to see the first Auracast-enabled devices pop up in late 2025 and into 2026. Now, for it to work, both your laptop *and* your headphones will need to support it, so it’s going to take a few years to become common. But the foundation is being built as we speak. In the near future, all these workarounds we’ve talked about will likely be replaced by a single “Share Audio” button on every device. Until then, the methods in this video are your best bet.
**Conclusion & CTA**
So there you have it. We’ve gone from the frustration of sharing earbuds to having several clear ways to create a private cinema for two. We’ve seen how Mac users can use Audio MIDI Setup, how Windows users can master Voicemeeter Banana, and how a simple hardware transmitter can be the easiest solution of all.
You’re now ready to share audio from your laptop with a friend, no matter what gear you have. The days of one-earbud-each are officially over.
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Thanks for watching, and happy viewing.
